December Journal – Olive Oil & Salt

December Journal 2024-  Oil & Salt

 

The holidays are in full swing. What better time to officially introduce a marvelous pairing – Italian Extra Virgin Olive Oil & French Salt from the Ile de Re and some amazing traditional recipes along with fun facts.

Over the centuries, what two ingredients in our meals have been more essential to create (make) a tasty dish than Tuscan extra virgin olive oil and salt from the sea.

Nancy Nicosia and I have been friends for a number of years and as I am a great admirer of her wonderful humor and her excellent cuisine using only the finest ingredients, I thought why not write an online journal together, sharing Nancy’s recipes and my thoughts -humble though my thoughts may be – added to the stew. The menu, Italian from the ages. 

A few years ago, Nancy and hubby Mario purchased a home in Tuscany. To their delight, they discovered that the property came with several acres of a mixed variety of older olive trees. To those, the couple purchased and planted a few more acres of trees to add to the mix. On the advice of local farmers, they sent the first harvest to a local communal press. Voila! The delicious result was the birth of their private extra virgin olive oil label Torre Di Gamberaia.

                                                   

They have since created their own small frantoio (olive oil press) on the property and acquired adjacent property with even more trees. The mix of frantoio, leccino, maraiolo and pendolino trees creates a perfectly balanced and rich olive oil. Their olives are hand-picked, and then cold-pressed using only mechanical means within 24 hours of collecting. This means that the olives do not sit in a basket and do not “oxidize” (that’s a bad thing!) – resulting in a low-acidity, nutrient rich, unique blend that is smooth and fruity with a peppery finish. The Italian farming tradition of everyone pitching in (“tutti nei campi!” Everyone to the fields!) to produce this incredible, beautiful, healthy product is what makes it so very special. It is truly a product made with care and passion. Torre di Gamberaia oil is available exclusively at the SOWA Winter Festival and online at Torredigamberaia.com.

                                                      

The rest is olive oil – and very tasty – history, all noted as you scroll down in Nancy’s first of many, easy to prepare, recipes: traditional Christmas and New Year’s festive Italian meals. Let’s set the table!

But first – let’s get a little salty, shall we?

For the last several years I have been spending time on Ile de Re an enchanting, low key island off the mid-Atlantic coast of France. Apart from the sheer joy of being there, away from the tedium (read as craziness) of my day to day, I found a paradise I had long desired.

Ile de Re is a quick drive from the mainland via a three-kilometer bridge from the port city of La Rochelle and once there a veritable sleepy (out of season) paradise. There are ten villages dotting the island, each with their own charm, each with its shops and restaurants set around their very own deep-water harbor.

It was on my first drive to the house in my favorite village of Loix, an island unto itself and located on the farthest end of the island connected to greater Ile de Re by a narrow causeway. It was crossing there that I first came upon the islands man-made salt pools. In rows, piled high were pyramidal forms of newly harvested sea salt. The pools gather a seemingly endless bounty deposited on the incoming tide and left to harvest on the outgoing. Using an almost primitive tool, a flat paddle rake of ancient design (minus teeth,) is used to harvest. There, overlooking the sea from whence it came, the salt is left to drain. Sun dried, harvested, washed, sun dried again, the process, some claim, credits the Romans who left their mark on Ile de Re centuries ago. 

Various textures in the grains of salt are achieved by the number of washes, from the heavier, larger, coarser salt, used in cooking, to fine table salt, the taste, to my palette, is oddly fruity, nutty with a taste of the sea. Often mixed with herbs, such as the ones Nancy uses in her first recipe, a blend of dried tomato and shallots adds to any recipe. The perfect appetizer mixes the salt paired with Torre di Gamberaia olive oil, crushed red pepper flakes, minced garlic, grated parmesan cheese, a loaf of crusty bread, and a bottle of red. What more could one ask of a lazy afternoon admiring the garden and sea beyond.

Add to the mix, our friend and expert British gardener Mathew Franklin Maiden otherwise known as The Charlbury Gardener (IG @thecharlburygardener), will be joining us from time to time offering gardening tips for growing healthy, garden fresh produce that Nancy (magically with the assistance of Zoom) incorporates in her recipes and sends to the cooking pots .

Nancy, Mathew, and I will also be cooking up deliziosa recipes direct from her Tuscan kitchen where the three of us will meet and share recipes with local cooks in Nancy’s and their own kitchens and chat with local gardeners sharing their age-old gardening skills. 

From our kitchen to yours we invite you to share our healthy, fresh from the garden, delicious home cooking.

Although this tradition originates from Southern Italy, over the last century it has become more of an Italian-American celebration. Where the “7” originated is unknown, but may be linked to symbolism such as the seven sacraments, seven days of creation, or the seven virtues of the Catholic religion.

We have simplified the evening’s offering of seafood this year, and have prepared a classic whole roasted fish. The recipe is for 6 people, but each person should have one whole fish, so choose smaller fish and add more if you are serving more people.

*Parchment Paper is a great resource, both to prevent food from sticking and also great for cleanup!

Roasted Whole Branzino with Herbs
6 whole branzino, cleaned and gutted (can substitute red snapper, etc).
3-TBS Torre di Gamberaia Extra Virgin Olive Oil, additional for serving
1 TBS Rivesaline Ile de Re’ Gross salt, Persillade salt (parsley salt), additional for serving
3 lemons
30 cloves garlic (5 for each fish), left whole
6 sprigs fresh rosemary
18 sprigs fresh parsley

Have your fishmonger gut the fish and scrape off the scales.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (205 celsius)

Rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towels. Spread two flat roasting pans with parchment paper*. Place 3 fish on each, face the fish in opposite directions to fit better. Rub each fish inside and out with extra virgin olive oil and persillade salt. Slice the lemons thinly and place 1/6 of slices in each of the fish. Follow with 1/6 of each of the garlic, rosemary and parsley.

Garlic, 5 cloves each – rosemary, 1 sprig each – parsley, 3 sprigs each. Tuck the herbs inside the fish so they do not burn.  Drizzle more extra virgin olive oil on top, sprinkle half teaspoon each of Il de Re  salt and place in oven for 20-30 minutes, depending on size of fish. You will know they are ready when the flesh inside is white and flaky, and skin is crispy.

                                                          

Serve on white platters adorned with curly kale and cherry tomatoes and be sure to have plenty of extra virgin olive oil and salt on hand at the table!

It goes without saying that roasted baby potatoes are a welcome addition to any holiday meal, but particularly with roasted meat and fish. All these delicious little spheres require is a good dose of extra virgin olive oil and a generous shake of good quality salt!

Simple Roasted Whole Baby Potatoes (serves 6)
3 lbs. Small whole potatoes, preferably yellow, ¾ to 1 -½ inch in size
Rivesaline Ile de Re’, persillade salt (parsley salt) (link)
2-3 TBS.Torre di Gamberaia Extra Virgin Olive Oil (link)

Preheat over to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, 205 celsius

Spread a flat roasting pan with parchment paper.

Place potatoes on top, drizzle with a good amount of olive oil and salt. Using two large spoons, mix the potatoes, olive oil, and salt together well. If they are not well-glazed in oil, add some more. Spread the potatoes evenly and drizzle them with persillade salt again to help create a good crusty skin. Do not turn the potatoes again. Roast for 30 minutes, or more if necessary until potatoes are tender inside and have a nice browned skin.

Pile these up high in a footed vegetable dish – if you have one, otherwise a vegetable serving platter or bowl will do!

Broccoli rabe, also known as rapini, has a bitter and peppery tast, mellowed by this combination of garlic, olive oil, and salt. Blanching the rabe in boiling water for a few minutes help to maintain the bright green of this gorgeous vegetable, and the olive oil adds a glossy finish. The slight bitterness of the cooked rabe pairs well with the simplicity of the potatoes and roasted fish.

Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Olive Oil

3 bunches of broccoli rabe (rapini)
3 TBS Torre di Gamberaia Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Rivesaline Ile de Re Sel Sec Salt
8-10 cloves garlic
Black Pepper (to taste)
Chili flakes (optional)

Trim the bottom of the broccoli rabe stalks and rinse in cold water.

Place 1 bunch of broccoli rabe in water, bring to a boil again and cook for about 5 minutes, until somewhat tender but still bright green. Remove with tongs, spread out in a bowl to cool and repeat with the other two bunches.

                                                              

Warm the garlic and olive oil in a saute’ pan large enough to hold all three bunches (they will be wilted and have less volume at this point). When the garlic begins to sizzle, add the rabe, the Sel Sec salt and the pepper. Saute’ for approximately 10 minutes, stirring frequently to make sure the rabe is completely covered in the olive oil and salt. Do not overcook, it should be somewhat tender, but still have a bite.  The rabe should remain a bright and glossy green.

Traditional Italian New Year’s Feast

Cotechino Sausage with Lentils
Green Salad
Fresh Fruit

The pears are first sauteed on both sides in butter, then placed round side up. After this step you should not turn the pears again, just allow them to braise in the wine, sugar and bay. The sugar is sprinkled over the pears and the bay leaves added at the same time as the wine. It is essential to use a heavy flat pan with a cover that will accommodate all of the pear halves so that each half is able to sit in the pan with its cut half braising the entire time. Check the pan frequently! as the liquid needs to become a dense, syrupy liquid without burning the pears. It will be rewarding, I guarantee you!

Pears Braised in Red Wine
4 firm Bartlett or Anjou pears
2 TBS butter*
8 bay leaves
4 Tablespoons sugar
2 cups full bodied red wine

*(to make it non-dairy, substitute Torre di Gamberaia extra virgin olive oil)

Mascarpone Cream
1 cup Mascarpone Cream
1 cup heavy cream
2 tsp. vanilla extract (fine without this as well)
¼ cup powdered or granular sugar

Peel the pears, slice them in half lengthwise and remove the core. Put the butter in a lidded saute pan that will accommodate the pear halves lying flat. Heat the butter on medium high and then add the pears, rounded side down. Cook until slightly browned, about 5 minutes and then turn to the other side. Brown that side and then sprinkle each pear half with the sugar. Add the wine and bay leaves, being sure to splash the wine over the pears to give them a nice reddish tint. Cover the pan and turn the heat to medium, but leave the cover slightly off-center so the steam can escape and the liquid can evaporate. As the pears are cooking, every now and then spoon some of the liquid over pears. Each time you do, you will add more color to the pears and infuse them more with the liquid so they cook without having to turn them over. Cook the pears until they are tender but still firm. The cooking juice should be syrupy, and if not, remove the pears and reduce the liquid more, or if it syrupy and the pears are not yet tender, add a little bit of water at a time. It is important that the liquid remain liquidy and not burnt, so keep a careful eye. Do not discard the bay leaves! See note regarding bay leaves for serving below.

To serve: Allow the pears to cool, but it is best to not refrigerate as the butter will coagulate (speaking from experience). I have a fabulous flat copper saute pan with stainless interior that I cook these in which doubles as a gorgeous serving utensil as well. Otherwise, line the pears up on a long serving dish (link to Charles’ serving dish), or a round one with each pointing in the same direction. Place one bay leaf on each of the pear halves. Serve with room temperature mascarpone cream.

Mascarpone Cream
Whisk together the cream and powdered sugar. Add the mascarpone cheese and vanilla and whisk. Do not whisk too much or you will make butter!
Serve, or make in advance and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before serving.

Cheese Platter with Fruit (or choose your own cheese)
Oro Del Tempo Piave Vecchio – aged pecorino from the Dolomites
La Tur 3 milk soft ripened cheese
Mitica Calciocavallo, aged, Southern Italy, similar to provolone
Quattro Portoni Quadrello Di Bufala – soft raw water buffalo cheese with a washed rind

Serve on a white platter with red grapes and a bit of green leaves if you have them, accompanied with honey and a selection of preserves.

Cotechino Sausage with Lentils
Cotechino Sausage with Lentils brings back memories of my first trip with my future husband when we joined five Italian families from Naples in Megeve, France for a ski trip over the Christmas and New Year holiday. Every evening involved the long and painstaking decision of where to go for dinner, everyone chattering at once until finally a decision was made, but New Year’s Eve was the exception – that night was set aside for fireworks in the front yard, snowball fights, and the tradition of Cotechino and Lentils for a late night New Year’s Eve dinner.

Cotechino sausage originated in the Emilia-Romagna region, but it is now part of the traditional New Year’s Eve dinner throughout Italy. It is made from a combination of lesser pork parts, including the rind, combined with lean cuts, and is flavored with salt, pepper and spices and then incased in pork casing. The combination results in a rich and gelatinous consistency after cooking.

Cotechino is available precooked or raw. If raw, it should be simmered gently for several hours to tenderize the meat, but many Italians prefer to use the pre-cooked version.

Lentils are also a traditional New Year’s dish – the tiny legumes have the appearance of tiny coins, representing prosperity, wealth and good luck in the New Year. The earthy flavor of simply prepared lentils pair perfectly with the savory, rich and spiced cotechino. If you are lucky enough to find lentils from the Castelluccio valley in Umbria or French Puy lentils, even better!

Lentils

1 lb. package pre-cooked cotechino sausage (or 1 lb. fresh cotechino plus vegetable stock)
2 cups green or brown lentils (Castelluccio or French Le Puy are superb, but any brand)
½ TBS. Rivesaline Sel Sec plus additional for serving (link)
2 TBS. Torre di Gamberaia, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, plus additional for serving (link)
2 TBS. Parsley leaves, roughly torn.

If using pre-cooked cotechino, open the box and place the entire aluminum foil pouch in a pot of 4 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Boil for 30-40 minutes. Carefully cut open pouch and pour out excess liquid. Remove the casing and slice in ½ to ¾ inch slices.

If using fresh cotechino, simmer for 80-90 minutes, preferably in vegetable stock.

Rinse the lentils in a fine mesh sieve and check for tiny rocks or debris.
Place lentils in saucepan containing 4 quarts water. Bring to a boil and once boiling, turn the heat down to medium. Cover the pan leaving the cover slightly open. Simmer on medium heat for 10-15 minutes until tender – but not mushy! The lentils will continue to cook once you have drained them, so do not overcook. The cooking time will depend greatly upon which lentils you are cooking. Drain and toss with the olive oil and salt, and parsley.

To serve: Place lentils on a long serving platter if you have one, place the sliced cotechino on top. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of sel sec salt and pepper.

Green Salad
1 head Boston or hydroponic lettuce
2 cups Baby Arugula
10 ,Cherry Tomatoes, sliced lengthwise
1-2 TBS Fresh Lemon juice, or to taste
2 TBS. Torre di Gamberaia Extra Virgin Olive Oil (link)
1 tsp. Rivesaline Fleur de Sel tomate echalate

Break lettuce and arugula into pieces. Add cherry tomatoes. Toss with olive oil, add salt and lemon juice to taste, toss again.

Serve in a white porcelain bowl, accompanied with additional olive and salt.

Fruit Bowl
Complete your New Year’s Eve table with a footed bowl or platter filled with whole fresh fruit, clementines, apples, oranges, bananas, grapes.

               

                                                                      From our table to yours. Don’t 

                                                   Wishing the very best of this holiday season.

                                                                             Charles & Nancy

 P.S. Stay tuned for more seasonal recipes to come and don’t forget to check out Torre de Gambraia for the olive oil (www.torredegamberaia.com) and Rivesaline (www.rivesaline.com) for the salt!